The summer crowds are long gone and the bears are preparing to hibernate. The waterfalls are more modest and the serious climbers have come.
For those prepared for the cold, November is a magical time to visit Yosemite. The peaks are often covered with fresh snow and when I visited the valley floor was too. The sun is not too hot for the big wall climbers and air not too cold to be unbearable. It is when serious and professional, including the likes of Alex Honnold can be seen in the Yosemite village.
For those not driving, Yosemite is one of the rare US National Parks serviced by public transport all year round. I based myself at Camp 4, a place where climbers congregated long before the sport gained the interest and popularity it has today. They were out so I took a stroll around the valley. There was also a chance to see Clouds Rest, one of the summits of interest this trip.
The visitors centre told stories of the early days of the park. In 1899 David Curry and his family opened a tented camp promising "a good bed and clean napkin with every meal" for $2 a day. As Yosemite attracted more visitors one popular form of entertainment was pushing burning embers off a kilometer high cliff as Mr Curry yelled "Let the fire fall". That unfortunately is not allowed anymore but a major tourium village is named in Curry's honour.
The days are shorter in November and the paths quickly become icy. At sunset the glare on the granite walls mellowed to a glow.
The Yosemite General Store carries a small range of groceries, souvenirs and a surprisingly large selection of craft brews at below supermarket prices. I gave into the temptation to try at least four Sierra themed brews every night.
It is a 20 minute walk back to camp. I heard laughter and several crackling fires as I returned. After insulating the inside of my tent (atop snow) I grabbed an armfull of brews and joined a fire hosting two who were chatting quietly.
"We are heading up the far side (of El Cap)." Condensation came out of his mouth. He wore a red rainjacket and beanie and held a small pot of soup. "What brings you here?"
"I am here to walk and take photos," I explained as I opened the peanut butter stout.
"If the weather holds up I will climb Clouds Rest. How long does it take an average group to ascend El Cap?"
"Three. But it can take far less. There are many different routes there of course."
I listened, gestured sharing some red ale and they accepted. "What do you do when you need to pee?"
"Well. Lets just say there is a pecking order based on how high you are on the wall."
"I would even go as far to recommend you do the walk to the top the back way just so you can pee there." The other chirped in.
The night grew colder and an early start the next day gave us the idea to sleep.
With a clear day ahead I caught the very first shuttle bus with the intention of ascending Clouds Rest in 1 long day.
The Mist Trail passes Vernal and Nevada Falls as well as countless cascades. It is a spectacle in summer and covered with ice in winter. The route (including a detour around the iciest part with steps) made good use of crampons.
The snow got thicker and made tracks disappeared after the junction of the Half Dome track. Progressed slowed. I made it within 50m of the icy summit and descended in the dark. I was rewarded with missing the last shuttle and walked back to camp to complete a 40km day. I made use of the camp shower which was described by the climbers as akin to 'being pissed on by a senile mouse'.
The valley is full of wildlife. This one reminds us that a nutritious breakfast is key to any adventure. The next one stole my toothbrush just for the fun of it and was plotting on taking other things.
The good weather continued and I took another stroll to see the big walls.
I pulled out my travel wildlife lens.
"An older man Tom Evans normally take photos for climbers. Do you mind sharing the photos?" I was invited into a Facebook group which I later learnt was hardcore.
"Can you help me with these secret questions to be accepted?" My knowledge of climbing terms was quickly boosted by a few people helping with answers.
I contemplated how this tree experienced life. Soon the pink glow cast over the valley and it was time for another brew.
